Not a mood word — a card with provenance: family, tier, diffusion, tenacity, working concentration, and the IFRA limit that applies to it.
The catalogue holds 7,875 materials. 3,076 of them carry a structural formula drawn from SMILES, so the molecule is on the card rather than in your memory.
Aldehyde C-12 MNA (2-methylundecanal)
Aldehyde · Top · Middle
Aldehydic, fresh, metallic, waxy, citrus, ambery; orange, fatty, dry, sparkling, gassy-sharp, diffusive; mossy, coumarinic, tuberose, powdery, coniferous, dry-fruity, honey-nutty, green, herbal, sweaty-musky.
Aldehyde C-14 (gamma-Undecalactone)
Fruit Aldehyde · Middle · Base
Fruity, peachy, apricot, fatty, powerful; creamy, lactonic, coconut, ketonic, buttery; sweet, vanillic, fruity-floral, nutty, macadamia, toffee-caramel, date, fig, pear, mango, apple, tropical, honey-fruity, dusty-earthy, with a faint aldehydic sheen.
Aldehyde C-18 (gamma-Nonalactone)
Fruit Aldehyde · Middle · Base
Coconut, creamy, fatty-oily, fruity; buttery, sweet, waxy, lactonic, vanillic, balsamic, hay-like; peachy, apricot, milky, tropical, gourmand, coumarinic; an anise-liquorice and herbaceous nuance, a tuberose-gardenia floral shade.
Ambroxan
Amber · Base
Ambery, dry, woody, with the odour of ambergris; labdanum, balsamic, sweet, tobacco, rooty, "old paper"; cedar, coniferous-pine, nutty; musky, animalic, powdery, creamy, smooth, clean, radiant; green-seedy, tea-like, fresh, herbal.
Anethole
Anise · Top · Middle
Anise, sweet, liquorice, star-anise, spicy, warm, herbaceous-herbal, green, cooling-fresh, fennel, medicinal, floral-mimosa, fruity, soda-root-beer, with an estragole shade in technical qualities.
Benzoin Res
Balsamic · Base
Balsamic, sweet, vanillic, resinous, ambery, warm, powdery, woody, cinnamic, spicy, rich, creamy, milky, creamy-liqueur, almond, caramel, honeyed, fruity, waxy.
Benzyl Salicylate
Jasmine · Base
Balsamic, floral, sweet, clean, herbaceous, oily, dry, softly narcotic, frangipani, orchid-petally, white-floral — ylang-ylang, narcissus, azalea, stock, spicy, slightly phenolic, salicylate-metallic, vanillic, sweet-woody, fatty-waxy, faintly musky, slightly medicinal, nominally marine and iodine-like, the coconut-suncream tone of monoi; weak in intensity.
Bergamot EO
Citrus · Top
Citrus, floral, bergamot, fresh, zesty (freshly cut peel), richly sweet-fruity, green, leafy, slightly bitter, lavender-agrestic, orange, oily-herbaceous, balsamic, woody, spicy, ginger, aldehydic, cologne-like, with a tobacco and clary-sage dry-down, Earl Grey tea.
BHT (2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol)
Antioxidants
Phenolic, camphoraceous, very weak, musty, cresylic.
Calone
Marine · Top · Middle · Base
Marine, fresh, watery, melon, green, ozonic, clean, watermelon, cool-aqueous, floral, heliotrope, white-floral, green-floral, cucumber, rhubarb, mossy, algal, mineral-oyster, phenolic undiluted.
Cedarwood Virginian EO
Woody · Base
Woody, cedar, dry, pencil shavings, balsamic, sweet-balsamic, ambery, creamy, smoky-incense, spicy, oily, soft, fresh, clean, resinous, earthy, leathery, vetiver, a sandalwood nuance, a rosy shade, turpentine harshness in individual technical fractions.
Cinnamon Ceylon
Spicy · Middle · Base
Cinnamic, cinnamaldehydic, spicy, sweet, warm, woody, aromatic, aldehydic, honeyed, resinous, balsamic, fruity in the opening, burning-sharp, dry powdery in the dry-down, eugenol-clove, floral-clove (carnation), coumarinic, apple-fruity and cola nuance, allspice nuance, zesty shade.
cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate
Green Leaves · Top
Green, fruity, banana (green banana), pear, apple, fresh, sweet, herbaceous, freshly cut grass, leafy, melon, pineapple, sharp, green-floral, with a light acetic-ester nuance; in dilution — the peel of an unripe banana.
DPG (Dipropylene Glycol)
— · Base
Practically odourless, a carrier solvent, diluent, solubiliser; at 100 % — a very weak alcoholic, glycolic tone, for some assessors faintly ethereal, ethereal-green, barely aromatic; it has no olfactory facets of its own.
Veltol+
Vanilla · Middle · Base
Sweet, sugary, caramel, caramelised, gourmand, confectionery, fruity, cooked-fruit, red-berry, ambery, balsamic, warm; cotton candy, burnt sugar, jammy, strawberry, raspberry, vanilla, toffee-fudge, pineapple, chocolate, milky, bittersweet, slightly spicy.
Florol
Floral · Middle
Floral, lily-of-the-valley (muguet), fresh, soft, natural, clean, green, watery-green, linalool-like, bois de rose, transparent, silky, slightly sweet, lilac, white-floral, with a light citrus glint in the opening.
Geranium Bourbon
Rosy · Middle
Rose, geranium, green, floral, fresh, sweet, spicy, minty, dill, tea, herbaceous-clover, fruity, earthy, powdery, fatty-waxy, metallic, slightly peppery, citrus, medicinal, camphoraceous in fougère accords.
Hedione HC
Jasmine · Top · Middle
Floral, jasmine, magnolia, powerful, fresh, clean, transparent, sweet, green, oily, fruity, natural, white-floral, lily-of-the-valley, lactonic, creamy, tropical, citrus (lemon, grapefruit), petally, with a woody nuance.
Galaxolide
Musk · Base
Musky, floral, clean, sweet, powerful, diffusive, powdery, fresh, warm, soapy-powdery, lactonic, milky, berry, slightly fruity, woody, balsamic, with a tone approaching the macrocyclic musks.
Hydroxycitronellal
Fresh · Middle · Base
Floral, lily, sweet, lily-of-the-valley (muguet), aldehydic, green, waxy, melon, tropical, citrus, fresh, clean, linden blossom, lilac, peony, cyclamen, sweet pea, watery, delicate.
Indole
Animalic · Middle · Base
Floral, white-floral, animalic, jasmine, narcotic, naphthalene (mothballs), faecal, sharply piercing, musty, tarry, cheesy, musky, earthy, erogenous.
Irone alpha
Powdery · Top · Middle · Base
Floral, violet, orris (iris root), woody, powdery, sweet, berry, raspberry, soft, warm, rich and natural, ambery, milky, vanillic, with a light mossiness and a nuance of a freshly opened newspaper.
Jasmin Sambac Abs
Floral · Top · Middle · Base
Floral jasmine, sweet, heavy, narcotic, fruity, green, warm, velvety, indolic, animalic, tea, honeyed, with a note of orange blossom and banana peel, solar, spicy, musky, incense, aldehydic, damp-fresh.
Jasmonal H
Jasmine · Middle · Base
Floral, jasmine, white-floral, waxy, green, fresh, herbaceous, sweet, oily-fatty, soft, lily-of-the-valley, narcissus, gardenia, lily, geranium-rose, powdery, citrus, fruity, tropical, spicy, anisic.
Lavender (Bulgaria)
Aromatic · Top · Middle
Lavender, fresh, floral, herbaceous, aromatic, sweet, green, spicy, cool, fruity, camphoraceous, rosemary, woody, balsamic, coumarinic, ambery in the dry-down, velvety, fougère; slightly bitter-burning undiluted.
Lemon Oil
Citrus · Top
Lemon, citrus, fresh, zesty, freshly cut lemon peel, strong, sweet, green, sharp, aldehydic, sourish, fruity, terpenic, cologne-like; in aged oil — a minty shade.
Lime Distilled Oil
Citrus · Top
Citrus, fresh, lime, sharp, terpenic, green, sweet, juicy, zesty, sparkling, clean, soda-like, cola, sour-candy, citral, aldehydic, tart, petitgrain, floral, woody, coniferous-balsamic, coumarinic.
Linalool
Floral · Top · Middle
Citrus, floral, lavender, woody, fresh, sweet, rosewood (bois de rose), rosy, lily-of-the-valley, bergamot, petitgrain, coriander, green, terpenic, spicy, orange, lemon, waxy, blueberry, fresh-floral, zesty, aromatic.
Linalyl Acetate
Fresh · Top · Middle
Sweet, floral, fruity, bergamot, lavender, citrus, pear (green pear), green, fresh, woody, spicy, clean, terpenic, zesty, agrestic, cologne-like, fougère.
Magnolan
Floral · Top · Middle · Base
Floral, magnolia, green, fresh, grapefruit, narcissus, geranium-rose, peony, gardenia, lily-of-the-valley, cyclamen, fruity — lychee, rhubarb, tropical fruits (mango); transparent-citrus, white-floral, clean, soft, slightly sweetish, with an indolic nuance.
Mandarin Yellow
Citrus · Top
Citrus, mandarin, sweet, fresh, floral, green, tart, somewhat sharp, tonic-"medicinal", neroli-floral, orange, terpenic, peely, with a candy-lozenge and honey-lemon nuance.
Methyl Anthranilate
Orangey · Middle · Base
Floral, fruity, grape (Concord), musty; neroli, orange blossom, sweet, narcotic white-floral (jasmine, tuberose, gardenia), warm, citrus, mandarin, dry floral, wild strawberry, powdery, musky, soapy, waxy, fatty, clean, fresh, green, herbal, naphthalene nuance.
Hedione
Jasmine · Middle
Floral, jasmine, fruity, sweet, fresh, green, citrus, lemon, grapefruit, oily, lactonic, tropical, natural, woody, transparent, light, radiant, white-floral, magnolia, petal, red-berry, peach, milky, creamy, clean, soft.
Methyl Pamplemousse
Fruity · Top · Middle
Citrus, green, fresh, grapefruit peel, bitterish, fruity, herbaceous-fresh, juicy, soapy, woody, sandalwood, vetiveryl acetate undertone, violet, aldehydic nuance in the opening, warm citrus aspects in the manner of citral and lemongrass.
Nerolidol
Floral · Middle · Base
Floral, green, woody, soft, delicate, sweet, rosy, apple, lily-of-the-valley, fruity, green-citrus, waxy, herbal, orange-blossom, peony, honeysuckle, sweet pea, lavender, cedar, tea, linden, melon, honeyed.
Fleur D'Orange
Orange · Top · Middle · Base
Orange-blossom floral, neroli-like, sweet, honeyed, green-stemmy, honeysuckle, hyacinth, jasmine, fruity of ripe fruit, herbaceous, fresh citrus-fruity, zesty, petitgrain, spicy, indolic, animalic, warm, balsamic, ambery, heady, deep, sensual, with a bitter-orange, gardenia and lavender nuance.
Iso E Super
Amber · Middle · Base
Woody, dry, ambery-woody, cedar, with a tone of ambergris, "old wood", ketonic, phenolic, floral, violet, velvety, smooth, transparent, powdery, earthy, vetiver, patchouli, mossy, sweetish-ambery, yeasty-mossy and slightly animalic at the opening.
Patchouli
Woody · Base
Patchouli, woody, earthy, camphoraceous, sweet-herbaceous, balsamic, spicy-aromatic, ambery; the dry smell of old wood, weedy, minty, mossy, smoky, damp undergrowth and rotting leaves, peppery-dusty, cocoa, fruity and winey in the dry-down, creamy-chocolate in aged lots, clean and transparent in the molecularly distilled.
PEA (Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol)
Rose · Middle
Floral, rose, honeyed, sweet, soft, warm, fresh, watery-petally, dry, bready, green, hyacinth, lilac, freesia, peony, white-floral, jasmine, waxy, metallic, slightly phenolic; in lower grades earthy, harsh, gassy-green.
Perfumery Alcohol (Ethanol 96%)
— · Top
Alcoholic, ethereal, sweetish, medicinal, sharp at the opening, winey, pleasant, soft.
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Orange · Middle · Base
Floral (neroli, orange blossom), fresh, green, woody, citrus, bitter, clean, herbaceous, sweetish, zesty, with warm woody tones, a bergamot-linalool, terpenic, spicy and fruity nuance.
Rhodinol
Rose · Middle
Rosy, floral, geranium; red rose, sweet, fresh, waxy-fatty, powdery, spicy, fruity, citrus (mandarin, lemon, lime), citronellal-like, minty-refreshing, clean, metallic; a tropical and heavy-citrus nuance, a green facet.
Rose Oil (Bulgaria)
Rosy · Top · Middle · Base
Floral rose, green, fresh, sweet, full-bodied, spicy, honeyed, waxy, winey, metallic, lemon-citrus, petally, fruity (lychee), artichoke, oily, peppery, warm resinous, earthy, watery, red floral.
Sandalwood
Woody · Middle · Base
Woody, sandalwood, creamy-buttery, milky, sweet, warm, rich, balsamic, softly rounded, lactonic, clean, slightly spicy, herbaceous-aromatic, terpenic in the opening, nutty (cashew), floral and rosy nuance, powdery, earthy, smoky, green shade in the opening.
Sweet Orange
Citrus · Top
Orange, fresh, citrus, sweet, juicy, fruity, terpenic, peely, aldehydic, sharp, dry, leafy, woody, jammy-gourmand, with a mandarin shade.
Triplal
Green Leaves · Top
Green, leafy, citrus, floral, aldehydic, powerful, fresh, cut grass, herbaceous, herbal, tart, peel-like, lemon and bergamot zest, privet, weedy, cucumber, fruity, rose-lilac, metallic, camphoraceous-herbal, anise herbs, soapy, clean, harsh and "industrial" undiluted.
Vanilla Bourbon Abs
Ambery Sweet · Middle · Base
Vanilla (pods, beans), sweet, balsamic, creamy-buttery, richly dense, ambery, caramel, toffee-fudge, gourmand, powdery, woody, phenolic, resinous, smoky-resinous, animalic, rum, chocolate, spicy, oily, banana, with a bitterish undertone.
Vanillin
Vanilla · Base
Vanilla, creamy-buttery, sweet, milky, chocolate, caramel, balsamic, ambery, phenolic, powdery, dry, spicy, warm, gourmand, resinous, with a eugenol-clove nuance, sweet-woody, with a cardboard shade when neat.
Vetiver Haiti EO
Woody · Base
Woody, earthy, rooty, smoky, nutty, peanut, roasted, balsamic, ambery, resinous, sweet, heavy, dry, powdery, peppery, spicy, mossy, guaiac, grapefruit, bitter-citrus, warm, rich, with a sandalwood nuance, a rose-fern glow and a minty-green spark at the opening.
Ylang-Ylang Extra
Floral · Middle · Base
Floral, white-floral, sweet, fruity, banana, jasmine, heady, solar, spicy, clove-eugenol, balsamic, creamy, benzyl, woody, lily, green, oriental, wintergreen (salicylate), ethereally light in the top notes, with a light animalic leathery-rubbery nuance in the dry-down.