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// 01 — BENCH

Compose in grams per kilogram

A perfumer’s bench in your browser: every material with its provenance, every formula with its history, every figure explainable.

The laboratory speaks the same six languages and takes yours from the browser.

// 02 — MATERIAL

It starts with the material

Not a mood word — a card with provenance: family, tier, diffusion, tenacity, working concentration, and the IFRA limit that applies to it.

The catalogue holds 7,875 materials. 3,076 of them carry a structural formula drawn from SMILES, so the molecule is on the card rather than in your memory.

The organ

  • Aldehyde C-12 MNA (2-methylundecanal)

    Aldehyde · Top · Middle

    Aldehydic, fresh, metallic, waxy, citrus, ambery; orange, fatty, dry, sparkling, gassy-sharp, diffusive; mossy, coumarinic, tuberose, powdery, coniferous, dry-fruity, honey-nutty, green, herbal, sweaty-musky.

  • Aldehyde C-14 (gamma-Undecalactone)

    Fruit Aldehyde · Middle · Base

    Fruity, peachy, apricot, fatty, powerful; creamy, lactonic, coconut, ketonic, buttery; sweet, vanillic, fruity-floral, nutty, macadamia, toffee-caramel, date, fig, pear, mango, apple, tropical, honey-fruity, dusty-earthy, with a faint aldehydic sheen.

  • Aldehyde C-18 (gamma-Nonalactone)

    Fruit Aldehyde · Middle · Base

    Coconut, creamy, fatty-oily, fruity; buttery, sweet, waxy, lactonic, vanillic, balsamic, hay-like; peachy, apricot, milky, tropical, gourmand, coumarinic; an anise-liquorice and herbaceous nuance, a tuberose-gardenia floral shade.

  • Ambroxan

    Amber · Base

    Ambery, dry, woody, with the odour of ambergris; labdanum, balsamic, sweet, tobacco, rooty, "old paper"; cedar, coniferous-pine, nutty; musky, animalic, powdery, creamy, smooth, clean, radiant; green-seedy, tea-like, fresh, herbal.

  • Anethole

    Anise · Top · Middle

    Anise, sweet, liquorice, star-anise, spicy, warm, herbaceous-herbal, green, cooling-fresh, fennel, medicinal, floral-mimosa, fruity, soda-root-beer, with an estragole shade in technical qualities.

  • Benzoin Res

    Balsamic · Base

    Balsamic, sweet, vanillic, resinous, ambery, warm, powdery, woody, cinnamic, spicy, rich, creamy, milky, creamy-liqueur, almond, caramel, honeyed, fruity, waxy.

  • Benzyl Salicylate

    Jasmine · Base

    Balsamic, floral, sweet, clean, herbaceous, oily, dry, softly narcotic, frangipani, orchid-petally, white-floral — ylang-ylang, narcissus, azalea, stock, spicy, slightly phenolic, salicylate-metallic, vanillic, sweet-woody, fatty-waxy, faintly musky, slightly medicinal, nominally marine and iodine-like, the coconut-suncream tone of monoi; weak in intensity.

  • Bergamot EO

    Citrus · Top

    Citrus, floral, bergamot, fresh, zesty (freshly cut peel), richly sweet-fruity, green, leafy, slightly bitter, lavender-agrestic, orange, oily-herbaceous, balsamic, woody, spicy, ginger, aldehydic, cologne-like, with a tobacco and clary-sage dry-down, Earl Grey tea.

  • BHT (2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol)

    Antioxidants

    Phenolic, camphoraceous, very weak, musty, cresylic.

  • Calone

    Marine · Top · Middle · Base

    Marine, fresh, watery, melon, green, ozonic, clean, watermelon, cool-aqueous, floral, heliotrope, white-floral, green-floral, cucumber, rhubarb, mossy, algal, mineral-oyster, phenolic undiluted.

  • Cedarwood Virginian EO

    Woody · Base

    Woody, cedar, dry, pencil shavings, balsamic, sweet-balsamic, ambery, creamy, smoky-incense, spicy, oily, soft, fresh, clean, resinous, earthy, leathery, vetiver, a sandalwood nuance, a rosy shade, turpentine harshness in individual technical fractions.

  • Cinnamon Ceylon

    Spicy · Middle · Base

    Cinnamic, cinnamaldehydic, spicy, sweet, warm, woody, aromatic, aldehydic, honeyed, resinous, balsamic, fruity in the opening, burning-sharp, dry powdery in the dry-down, eugenol-clove, floral-clove (carnation), coumarinic, apple-fruity and cola nuance, allspice nuance, zesty shade.

  • cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate

    Green Leaves · Top

    Green, fruity, banana (green banana), pear, apple, fresh, sweet, herbaceous, freshly cut grass, leafy, melon, pineapple, sharp, green-floral, with a light acetic-ester nuance; in dilution — the peel of an unripe banana.

  • DPG (Dipropylene Glycol)

    — · Base

    Practically odourless, a carrier solvent, diluent, solubiliser; at 100 % — a very weak alcoholic, glycolic tone, for some assessors faintly ethereal, ethereal-green, barely aromatic; it has no olfactory facets of its own.

  • Veltol+

    Vanilla · Middle · Base

    Sweet, sugary, caramel, caramelised, gourmand, confectionery, fruity, cooked-fruit, red-berry, ambery, balsamic, warm; cotton candy, burnt sugar, jammy, strawberry, raspberry, vanilla, toffee-fudge, pineapple, chocolate, milky, bittersweet, slightly spicy.

  • Florol

    Floral · Middle

    Floral, lily-of-the-valley (muguet), fresh, soft, natural, clean, green, watery-green, linalool-like, bois de rose, transparent, silky, slightly sweet, lilac, white-floral, with a light citrus glint in the opening.

  • Geranium Bourbon

    Rosy · Middle

    Rose, geranium, green, floral, fresh, sweet, spicy, minty, dill, tea, herbaceous-clover, fruity, earthy, powdery, fatty-waxy, metallic, slightly peppery, citrus, medicinal, camphoraceous in fougère accords.

  • Hedione HC

    Jasmine · Top · Middle

    Floral, jasmine, magnolia, powerful, fresh, clean, transparent, sweet, green, oily, fruity, natural, white-floral, lily-of-the-valley, lactonic, creamy, tropical, citrus (lemon, grapefruit), petally, with a woody nuance.

  • Galaxolide

    Musk · Base

    Musky, floral, clean, sweet, powerful, diffusive, powdery, fresh, warm, soapy-powdery, lactonic, milky, berry, slightly fruity, woody, balsamic, with a tone approaching the macrocyclic musks.

  • Hydroxycitronellal

    Fresh · Middle · Base

    Floral, lily, sweet, lily-of-the-valley (muguet), aldehydic, green, waxy, melon, tropical, citrus, fresh, clean, linden blossom, lilac, peony, cyclamen, sweet pea, watery, delicate.

  • Indole

    Animalic · Middle · Base

    Floral, white-floral, animalic, jasmine, narcotic, naphthalene (mothballs), faecal, sharply piercing, musty, tarry, cheesy, musky, earthy, erogenous.

  • Irone alpha

    Powdery · Top · Middle · Base

    Floral, violet, orris (iris root), woody, powdery, sweet, berry, raspberry, soft, warm, rich and natural, ambery, milky, vanillic, with a light mossiness and a nuance of a freshly opened newspaper.

  • Jasmin Sambac Abs

    Floral · Top · Middle · Base

    Floral jasmine, sweet, heavy, narcotic, fruity, green, warm, velvety, indolic, animalic, tea, honeyed, with a note of orange blossom and banana peel, solar, spicy, musky, incense, aldehydic, damp-fresh.

  • Jasmonal H

    Jasmine · Middle · Base

    Floral, jasmine, white-floral, waxy, green, fresh, herbaceous, sweet, oily-fatty, soft, lily-of-the-valley, narcissus, gardenia, lily, geranium-rose, powdery, citrus, fruity, tropical, spicy, anisic.

  • Lavender (Bulgaria)

    Aromatic · Top · Middle

    Lavender, fresh, floral, herbaceous, aromatic, sweet, green, spicy, cool, fruity, camphoraceous, rosemary, woody, balsamic, coumarinic, ambery in the dry-down, velvety, fougère; slightly bitter-burning undiluted.

  • Lemon Oil

    Citrus · Top

    Lemon, citrus, fresh, zesty, freshly cut lemon peel, strong, sweet, green, sharp, aldehydic, sourish, fruity, terpenic, cologne-like; in aged oil — a minty shade.

  • Lime Distilled Oil

    Citrus · Top

    Citrus, fresh, lime, sharp, terpenic, green, sweet, juicy, zesty, sparkling, clean, soda-like, cola, sour-candy, citral, aldehydic, tart, petitgrain, floral, woody, coniferous-balsamic, coumarinic.

  • Linalool

    Floral · Top · Middle

    Citrus, floral, lavender, woody, fresh, sweet, rosewood (bois de rose), rosy, lily-of-the-valley, bergamot, petitgrain, coriander, green, terpenic, spicy, orange, lemon, waxy, blueberry, fresh-floral, zesty, aromatic.

  • Linalyl Acetate

    Fresh · Top · Middle

    Sweet, floral, fruity, bergamot, lavender, citrus, pear (green pear), green, fresh, woody, spicy, clean, terpenic, zesty, agrestic, cologne-like, fougère.

  • Magnolan

    Floral · Top · Middle · Base

    Floral, magnolia, green, fresh, grapefruit, narcissus, geranium-rose, peony, gardenia, lily-of-the-valley, cyclamen, fruity — lychee, rhubarb, tropical fruits (mango); transparent-citrus, white-floral, clean, soft, slightly sweetish, with an indolic nuance.

  • Mandarin Yellow

    Citrus · Top

    Citrus, mandarin, sweet, fresh, floral, green, tart, somewhat sharp, tonic-"medicinal", neroli-floral, orange, terpenic, peely, with a candy-lozenge and honey-lemon nuance.

  • Methyl Anthranilate

    Orangey · Middle · Base

    Floral, fruity, grape (Concord), musty; neroli, orange blossom, sweet, narcotic white-floral (jasmine, tuberose, gardenia), warm, citrus, mandarin, dry floral, wild strawberry, powdery, musky, soapy, waxy, fatty, clean, fresh, green, herbal, naphthalene nuance.

  • Hedione

    Jasmine · Middle

    Floral, jasmine, fruity, sweet, fresh, green, citrus, lemon, grapefruit, oily, lactonic, tropical, natural, woody, transparent, light, radiant, white-floral, magnolia, petal, red-berry, peach, milky, creamy, clean, soft.

  • Methyl Pamplemousse

    Fruity · Top · Middle

    Citrus, green, fresh, grapefruit peel, bitterish, fruity, herbaceous-fresh, juicy, soapy, woody, sandalwood, vetiveryl acetate undertone, violet, aldehydic nuance in the opening, warm citrus aspects in the manner of citral and lemongrass.

  • Nerolidol

    Floral · Middle · Base

    Floral, green, woody, soft, delicate, sweet, rosy, apple, lily-of-the-valley, fruity, green-citrus, waxy, herbal, orange-blossom, peony, honeysuckle, sweet pea, lavender, cedar, tea, linden, melon, honeyed.

  • Fleur D'Orange

    Orange · Top · Middle · Base

    Orange-blossom floral, neroli-like, sweet, honeyed, green-stemmy, honeysuckle, hyacinth, jasmine, fruity of ripe fruit, herbaceous, fresh citrus-fruity, zesty, petitgrain, spicy, indolic, animalic, warm, balsamic, ambery, heady, deep, sensual, with a bitter-orange, gardenia and lavender nuance.

  • Iso E Super

    Amber · Middle · Base

    Woody, dry, ambery-woody, cedar, with a tone of ambergris, "old wood", ketonic, phenolic, floral, violet, velvety, smooth, transparent, powdery, earthy, vetiver, patchouli, mossy, sweetish-ambery, yeasty-mossy and slightly animalic at the opening.

  • Patchouli

    Woody · Base

    Patchouli, woody, earthy, camphoraceous, sweet-herbaceous, balsamic, spicy-aromatic, ambery; the dry smell of old wood, weedy, minty, mossy, smoky, damp undergrowth and rotting leaves, peppery-dusty, cocoa, fruity and winey in the dry-down, creamy-chocolate in aged lots, clean and transparent in the molecularly distilled.

  • PEA (Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol)

    Rose · Middle

    Floral, rose, honeyed, sweet, soft, warm, fresh, watery-petally, dry, bready, green, hyacinth, lilac, freesia, peony, white-floral, jasmine, waxy, metallic, slightly phenolic; in lower grades earthy, harsh, gassy-green.

  • Perfumery Alcohol (Ethanol 96%)

    — · Top

    Alcoholic, ethereal, sweetish, medicinal, sharp at the opening, winey, pleasant, soft.

  • Petitgrain Bigarade Oil

    Orange · Middle · Base

    Floral (neroli, orange blossom), fresh, green, woody, citrus, bitter, clean, herbaceous, sweetish, zesty, with warm woody tones, a bergamot-linalool, terpenic, spicy and fruity nuance.

  • Rhodinol

    Rose · Middle

    Rosy, floral, geranium; red rose, sweet, fresh, waxy-fatty, powdery, spicy, fruity, citrus (mandarin, lemon, lime), citronellal-like, minty-refreshing, clean, metallic; a tropical and heavy-citrus nuance, a green facet.

  • Rose Oil (Bulgaria)

    Rosy · Top · Middle · Base

    Floral rose, green, fresh, sweet, full-bodied, spicy, honeyed, waxy, winey, metallic, lemon-citrus, petally, fruity (lychee), artichoke, oily, peppery, warm resinous, earthy, watery, red floral.

  • Sandalwood

    Woody · Middle · Base

    Woody, sandalwood, creamy-buttery, milky, sweet, warm, rich, balsamic, softly rounded, lactonic, clean, slightly spicy, herbaceous-aromatic, terpenic in the opening, nutty (cashew), floral and rosy nuance, powdery, earthy, smoky, green shade in the opening.

  • Sweet Orange

    Citrus · Top

    Orange, fresh, citrus, sweet, juicy, fruity, terpenic, peely, aldehydic, sharp, dry, leafy, woody, jammy-gourmand, with a mandarin shade.

  • Triplal

    Green Leaves · Top

    Green, leafy, citrus, floral, aldehydic, powerful, fresh, cut grass, herbaceous, herbal, tart, peel-like, lemon and bergamot zest, privet, weedy, cucumber, fruity, rose-lilac, metallic, camphoraceous-herbal, anise herbs, soapy, clean, harsh and "industrial" undiluted.

  • Vanilla Bourbon Abs

    Ambery Sweet · Middle · Base

    Vanilla (pods, beans), sweet, balsamic, creamy-buttery, richly dense, ambery, caramel, toffee-fudge, gourmand, powdery, woody, phenolic, resinous, smoky-resinous, animalic, rum, chocolate, spicy, oily, banana, with a bitterish undertone.

  • Vanillin

    Vanilla · Base

    Vanilla, creamy-buttery, sweet, milky, chocolate, caramel, balsamic, ambery, phenolic, powdery, dry, spicy, warm, gourmand, resinous, with a eugenol-clove nuance, sweet-woody, with a cardboard shade when neat.

  • Vetiver Haiti EO

    Woody · Base

    Woody, earthy, rooty, smoky, nutty, peanut, roasted, balsamic, ambery, resinous, sweet, heavy, dry, powdery, peppery, spicy, mossy, guaiac, grapefruit, bitter-citrus, warm, rich, with a sandalwood nuance, a rose-fern glow and a minty-green spark at the opening.

  • Ylang-Ylang Extra

    Floral · Middle · Base

    Floral, white-floral, sweet, fruity, banana, jasmine, heady, solar, spicy, clove-eugenol, balsamic, creamy, benzyl, woody, lily, green, oriental, wintergreen (salicylate), ethereally light in the top notes, with a light animalic leathery-rubbery nuance in the dry-down.

// 03 — ACCORD

An accord is arithmetic with a hypothesis

Two probes of the same formula, one line apart. What changed, and what the change was meant to answer.

Tiers
Top · Middle · Base
A heart is present: the middle tier is covered.
Families
Citrus · Jasmine · Amber
Restrictions that apply
  • Bergamot EO: Recommended maximum: up to 0.4% (final product)
  • Hedione: No allergens
  • Iso E Super: Recommended maximum: up to 20% (final product)
Working concentrations
  • Bergamot EO: 10%
  • Hedione: 10%
  • Iso E Super: 10%

This is not a simulation of smell. It is what the catalogue says about three cards you picked, and nothing more.

Open the laboratory

// 04 — THE BENCH

What the application does

Six stations. Each one is a thing you can do today, not a promise.

  1. Family, tier, diffusion, tenacity, working concentration. IFRA limits as numbers per category with the amendment named, the EU labelling entry, manufacturers, CAS. Outcome: you check a dose against a published limit instead of remembering one.

// 05 — PRACTICE

Think like a perfumer for five minutes

Take a smell you have at hand — coffee, a peeled orange, a wooden shelf — and write it down. The method starts with one written observation.

Repeat it with a real sample

Put one drop on a blotter at a tenth of strength. Read it at one minute, at ten, and at an hour, and write each reading separately. The three readings are the exercise; the differences between them are the lesson.

// 06 — METHOD

Where every number came from

The part of a product page that usually asks for trust. This one shows its sources.

The rules the application applies

61 statutes and 63 facts compiled from the school’s own rulebook: grams per kilogram, the main story at 500 g/kg or more, empty space at 200 or more, the decimal dilution series, dosage in steps of five and ten, tier balance by genre, a mandatory heart, the cologne module, BHT by oxidisability, IFRA control.

Where the catalogue comes from

An ingredient database refresh, a master registry of raw materials, PubChem for individual compounds, and the author’s own editorial fields. The descriptive prose over that registry was rewritten by a model — saying so is the difference between a source and a claim.

The structural formulas

3,076 molecules drawn from SMILES by the project’s own pipeline. Nobody else’s pictures are published here.

Availability

The application works offline from its own bundle; the server is what makes an edit reach another device, not what makes the application work. An account exists so your formulas can follow you between them.

TODO: platforms and stores · TODO: price